Yurt camp

After three nights in Bukhara, we're all feeling slightly monumented out. It's quite similar to Thailand where you become templed out. Don't get  me wrong, the  monuments are fantastic but there is a common theme of blue tiles and domes.

A quick mention  for Cafe Wishbone, set up last year by a German tourist who visited Bukhara last year and couldn't find a decent latte . So she went back home, so the story goes, sold up, and returned the following summer with a huge chrome coffee machine. I can honestly say she has
cornered the market and  the coffee was delicious!
So we're on the road to Samarkand. Thankfully not such a marathon as our last trip through the desert

The yurt camp turns out to be way better than we feared. We're 4 to a yurt and the only group staying. Mind you it was a close call there are 90 French tourists staying tomorrow!

There's a restaurant block and a toilet block which are relatively permanent, while the yurts are dismantled for winter. After dinner, the staff build a campfire and we gather round while one of the locals digs out his banjo and obliges with a few folk songs. Thankfully he stops soon. Most people retire to bed about 10:30 and it's surprisingly comfortable and warm. Next morning, after breakfast, it's time for the threatened camel ride. Despite vowing never to sit on a camel  ever again, I give in to peer pressure and decide to give Emma a bit of moral support. I can honestly say that 20 minutes is more than enough and whoever suggested a 3 hour trek to the lake must be bonkers. Can I just go on record now to say I am never going on a camel again?

So we drive to the lake and just six of us decide a swim is in order. As usual, it's a bit chilly at first but fine once you take the plunge. After a half hour of this we head back up the beach to dry off. The grumpy staff from the camp have managed to prepare a picnic lunch despite their misery, and it's not bad. God help them tomorrow -- lunch for 90 Frenchies!

Bukhara

So, after a gruelling drive from Khiva, we're in our third Uzbekistan city, Bukhara. The old part of the city isn't so well defined as Khiva because the city walls have gone but there are many old buildings to see around the centre. There are certainly many more tourists here, which is evident when walking around the town and when trying to  book a place for dinner. I haven't managed to figure out why, but it's very popular with both French and German tourists, better marketing perhaps.

Many of the buildings and monuments are in remarkably good condition and whatever restoration has taken place has been done to a high standard. We've seen mausoleums, mosques, minarets and madrasas!  There are many more shopping opportunities here which pleases some members of the group. Thankfully the locals aren't too pushy.

I'm in a different hotel from the others, apparently because I was the last one to book. Apart from the lack of WiFi , it's not  a big deal. So, a short post tonight and  I'm off to try and borrow some bandwidth.

Khiva

I think I drew the short straw but maybe I'll reserve judgement. I was the last one to book this trip and apparently the normal flight across to Khiva was full so they booked me on the early one instead. Then the airline shunted the mid  morning flight to 1pm, so the rest  of  the group won't be here till after 3. So despite a distinct lack of sleep and a 5 am alarm call, I've had a leisurely lunch and a couple of hours soaking up the atmosphere.

It does look stunning and I only hope my photos do  it some justice.

A quick view of Tashkent

To be blunt that's probably all you need. Don't get  me wrong, it's not a bad place but I haven't seen anything that really stands out. We're told that it can be viewed as  the old city and the new city. The trouble with that is that anything really old has long since been flattened in once of the fairly frequent earthquakes. And anything new was built in the Soviet era, or the post Soviet era, so lots of glass and concrete.

If that sounds unduly negative, then to redress the balance leery me day that the impression I'll take away is of a very green city. There are lots of green spaces between the buildings and many trees. What they describe as Independence Square is really Independence Park. We saw it in the heat of the afternoon but it must be a pleasant place to stroll in the evening.

I found the bazaar disappointing. How can so many  stalls selling socks exist so close together?  Or come to that, potatoes? But no open air cafes or coffee shops. This could definitely be the next big opportunity for Costa!

Early start tomorrow, off to Urgench and then Khiva . WiFi permitting, I'll report more tomorrow.

Hotel Uzbekistan

A few photos from a brief walk around the block.

You definitely have to put  "Soviet era" before the hotel name!  Buildings close by are more modern and the park is cool and shaded.

Arriving in Tashkent

Possibly my worst airport arrival experience ever. And let's face it, that's saying something.

The arrivals hall its just totally decrepit and chaotic. The bus from the aircraft drops you at the entrance door then there's just a mad rush for one of the four passport desks. There doesn't seem to be any difference between passport nationalities so I pile  into the scrum  and hope foe the best. It's 4am local time, I haven't slept and I'm not my usual sunny self. Kids start to wail, after half am hour I'm ready to join them. We're inching closer and I'm still going I'm in the right queue - I imagine getting to the counter to be sent back to some unseen "foreigners" line. A Russian woman in shades and a leather coat makes a determined push and elbows me aside. She's talking excitedly to a much smaller, shriveled husband who follows in her wake. I mutter "ignorant cow" fairly safe that no one will comprehend. It is the right queue, I'm through finally and on to phase 2.

By now the luggage is appearing. The belts  are way too small and have a series of sharp corners where the bags either jam until they fall off, or just fall off anyway. My bag isn't on the belt, no teal surprise there, but when no new bags appear, I start to worry. After all, I do have history with lost bags. 30 minutes later I find it, upside down, of the end of the belt and splattered with something horribly sticky. Sigh. Better that than not at all I suppose.

So  to phase 3 of the endurance test - customs. First challenge is rip complete yep copies of the customs form which  is printed in Uzbek only. Go back a stage. First find two clean, blank forms. Obviously these are rationed and they have used today's allocation. After all it is now 5am. Eventually I find once blank and a second with minimal scribble and manage to complete them using the tiny sample glued  to the wall. Towing my sticky suitcase I join one of the scrums for the customs officials. I use that word in the sense of officious. If anyone crosses the red line in front of his desk, he halts the whole process until everyone takes a step back. Not ready to comply when you're being shoved, elbowed and having your ankles assailed by luggage trolleys. The Czech guy alongside me is the first person I've managed to speak to. He has lost his bag but is smiling. Actually he has a fixed grin, kind of demented. There but for the grace. ........ Leather jacket woman approaches from the left side but I'm ready for her little tricks this time. Further top the left someone is yelling at the officials but I ignore it and head for the finish line.

I'm there!  Two minutes, lots of stamps on forms and visas and a friendly "welcome to Uzbekistan".

Only two and a half hours, what could be simpler?

On the way to Tashkent

I've not been through Moscow airport for a while and it's had a makeover. The restaurant used to be like a canteen  with tough looking dinner ladies, serving potatoes and mysterious soup from a cauldron. Now we have Coffee Mania.

I've got a 3 hour  stopover then another 3 hours to Tashkent, should get in about 4 am. Thankfully I have a full day to recover before the others arrive - think I'll need it!

I've made all my plans, as usual, to update my blog. I may well be thwarted by a lack of Wi-Fi. So, watch this space.. .....