H H Dalai Lama

So as planned we had an early breakfast and drove down to the temple in lower Dharamsala where the Dalai Lama had been teaching for 3 days. Apparently his timekeeping is idiosyncratic -- it's quite common for a lecturer scheduled for 10 am to be in full swing by 9:15. There's a short of grapevine so that everyone gets notified. So it was by several phone calls and texts that we knew when he would leave the temple / conference centre and had back up the hill to his residence. We bagged a spot by the roadside in front of the temple gate and tried to look inconspicuous! Imagine that........

Leads of Indian security; they recognise him as equivalent to a head of state. After another 15 minutes the lead car appeared, ready to clear a path through the crowd. Next his limo and we had picked the right side of the road because there he was, just three feet away smiling benignly as ever. I was alongside Philippa, who sometimes leads the tour and who knows him. So I think it's perfectly reasonable to say that we both waved and he smiled and waved back.

After that, the rest of the morning was inevitably an anti-climax! We wandered round the complex, Tibetan craft workshops, and the nunnery then finished with a leisurely lunch in the gardens.

Dharamsala

It's Thursday afternoon and we arrived in Dharamsala yesterday afternoon. It was a real wrench to leave the Judge's Court but Jeremy insisted. A fairly leisurely drive with a stop for a picnic lunch at a temple hewn out of solid rock. Now where have I seen that before?

Towards the end of the die we passed through a village where a fair was in full swing. There was the usual fairground rides for the kids, loads of stalls selling sticky treats and the highlight -- wrestling. Yes, men in pants, brawling in the middle of a dirt arena. At first we hung about at the back of the crowd but the chief referee spotted us and insisted that we were his guests and we must come and sit in the grandstand. The women in our group were quickly reclassified as "honorary men" for the next half hour. The wrestling action got progressively more serious as they worked through the qualifying rounds and approached the final. Some serious money was changing hands by this stage and the little four man marching band increased the tempo. It was hard fought with some bone jarring throws and a final body slam which the crowd didn't approve of but the ref decided to allow. So the not so popular winner did a quick lap of honour while we headed back to the bus.

Our hotel accommodation has now returned to the usual Exodus standard. Or possibly that's the Indian standard - doors that don't quite shut, bathroom that floods after a shower, tv remote held together with sticky tape, need I go on!

We're actually staying in McLeod Ganj which is further up the hillside and quite busy and touristy. The streets are narrow and there is lots of traffic buzzing round way too fast.
The region is the centre for Tibetans in exile: there's a library, schools, parliament in exile, museums, monasteries and nunneries, and of course, His Holiness the Dalai Lama. He has been teaching at the nearby Tibetan cultural centre but will be returning to his residence after breakfast on Friday. That's our breakfast, not his - I can't claim any inside knowledge on his breakfast routine. We do plan to try and wait by the roadside as he leaves the temple, watch this space..........

Raj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mandi

Easter Sunday and we're in a small market town called Mandi, en route to Shimla. The hotel really is the former palace of the erstwhile Raj, who is 81 years old and still running the place along with his son. It's delightfully shabby, all faded paintwork, huge dining rooms and hovering waiters. My room is just enormous, a dressing room with a huge tv, a bed which would probably fit four without too much drama and for the first time this week a shower with an actual shower curtain! Shame we're only staying one night......

At the Judge's court

We're staying for two nights at a country house, converted to a boutique style hotel. It's almost like being a house guest for the weekend - and there are more staff than guests.

The judge, Justice Jai Lal was the first Indian to be appointed as such by the personal warrant of King George V, and the framed certificate is hanging by the staircase. The house is still in the family, we believe it's now run as a hotel by his great grandson. Belfast is served nest to the pool alongside the overgrown tennis court, dinner is as at the back of the house on the rather magnificent lawn.

Today has been a very relaxing day: a late start and then a gentle morning walk into the many village to see some of the old houses. Some are well preserved and still lived in, others are in a state of decay but it's still interesting to see the different styles of architecture.

Well it's cocktail time, gin o' clock!

Amritsar

Arrived safely into Amritsar at 1am and after waiting what seemed like an age for my bag, was quite rely relieved to find my driver waiting patiently by the exit holding a little board with my name on it. It was about 20 minutes drive to the guesthouse and I was in bed 10 minutes later!

So I got up at 9 and wandered through the grounds. One of the staff spotted me and ran across to ask if I'd like some breakfast. Fresh fruit cocktail and cheese omelette later, I felt almost  human again!

The rest of the group arrived at lunchtime -- just 6 more, which was much less than I had expected, especially for Easter time. And, surprise, Cathryn from my Ethiopia trip was there! Three of us decided to do an independent trip to see the border retreat ceremony Waggah which is one more thing that Michael Palin did on his travels. What an adventure! Must have been 60,000 people there altogether on both sides of the border. It's quite scary actually reaching the location, you have to park about a mile away and walk with good natured but boisterous crowds to the grandstands. You're frisked 3 times and eventually corralled into a special foreigners enclosure. There's patriotic mystic playing at full blast and cheer leaders whipping the crowd into a frenzy. When the music pauses you can hear the other crowd chanting "Pakistan " from just 50 yards away. Then the soldiers and border guards start to march up and down, doing a short of John Clsese silly walk. After a lot of theatrics the gate is slammed shut for the night.

As if that wasn't enough excitement for one day, we went to the Golden Temple in the evening. Our driver didn't arrive so we found ourselves hurtling through the streets of a Amritsar crammed into a couple of tuk tuks!

Now it's Monday evening and we've had a busy day and a long drive. But hopefully more about that tomorrow.